//Essential Features to look For in a Tactical Light by NK (last edited June 30, 2014)

// Tactical lights, whether for self defense, professional, survival, or search and rescue, needs to have certain key features to work well in adverse real world conditions.

> 1 It needs to have a Constant Brightness drain pattern with no mode dropping or overheating

> 2 Not have very sensitive lock out

> 3 Has the combination of output & projection and can blind someone. Whether the light has a long distance throw or disperses quickly up close only matters on what kind of defensive or offensive range you're considering.

> 4 Has good carry options that keep the flashlight secure on person

> 5 Can be used well as a blunt object
#1 Constant Brightness Output
// There are many flashlights in the market that just ramp up the output then the brightness permanently dims down after 5-10 minutes but this allows companies to sell performance figures to consumers. Constant brightness means that even though this light is outputting a similar if not a little less than the Fenix PD35 initial output of 850, as the battery depletes the Predator will continue to produce it's max output, so in real world use it ends up staying the more useful & reliable light. FE on the Armytek Barracuda which also is constant brightness, that flashlight can authentically serve the role of a search light because a search is going to be more than 5-10 minutes. This is very important because some flashlights drop very quickly in brightness after a little battery use and then no longer serve their role.
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#2 Not Have Sensitive Lock Out
// Lock out is when you can unscrew one of the connecting points and the flashlight will not turn on if the button is pressed. The top flash light in this picture is a Nitecore P16 which has a side button to switch modes and a tail cap button to turn on. Because of that design if either end of the flashlight is slightly loose the flashlight won't turn on. This is common on flashlights with that operating method. Why this is bad because in a tactical situation you need your light to be reliable and not require double checking. If you did strike an object with the light, or were moving around a lot and the cap were to slightly loosen then when you went to access the light it would not be ready. Many tactical lights like the Nitecore MH2C or Armytek Predator lock out only when the tail cap is loosened so gluing that side tight is a fix. The head side can unscrew but instead of shutting off will access another mode which depending on the manufacturer can be programmed. A truly tactical light would be an Elzetta Charlie with the single mode twist cap so even if loose, if you press the cap it will function & there's no other output but max.
#3 Has the highest output to projection for it's size
// The Fenix PD35 used here has 850 lumens (estimated) real world output. At this level of output most people would have to be determined to look past it but it is possible. In daylight there won't be much of an effect and at longer distances of 30-40 feet away through tinted mirrors the light won't bother anyone. Pushing further towards 900 lumens and up at night this starts to make blinding power a guarantee. Nearing 1000 lumens is a definite and will work slightly during daylight & can work at night at longer distances of 20-30 feet through glass if the flashlight has good throw (meaning a deeper reflector). For tactical purposes the output in relation to throw must be considered. An 800 lumen flashlight with good throw can shine through windows better than the PD35 even though there's less output. Output doesn't matter without a good reflector to project it far.
Relative importance in situation:
Visibility for illuminating long distances: Throw > Output
Blinding power 10-20 feet range: Output > Throw
Blinding power for 30 -50 feet: Throw > Output
#4 Can be securely carried & have other options such as key chain or weapon mount
// Most flashlights offer a pocket clip but the tension and position options can be less than perfectly designed. On average Fenix clips are very good. Nitecore clips can be weak and will almost always need to be bent for more tension. Armytek clips are very strong. FE being able to clip a flashlight onto a keychain is very helpful to prevent losing your light in a survival situation. If a light can't be securely carried then it's not good for survival. Reliable pocket clip carry will aid when using the flashlight in a self defense situation. Having reflector up or down carry options can accommodate different people's preferences for hand grips. Especially important when considering striking with the flashlight because usually the tail cap portions have raised parts that can injure the person's thumb when gripped.
#5 Can be used as an emergency striking tool
Many flashlights don't have good pocket carry options and when a person grabs the flashlight there's the possibility of injuring one's thumb when gripping the flashlight to do a hammer strike. Some flashlights emphasize striking with the lens face which if not aggressive will do little damage. If a flashlight has a tail cap with raised sides around the button then that is the correct side to use when striking. Fenix lights have softer edged thicker button guards so pushing with your thumb when striking won't hurt but Nitecore flashlights can injure the user's thumb. On the Olight M18 Striker the bezel side is a danger to the user and the button side is soft. On the Armytek Wizard both ends are like a pommel or hammer which makes it very good for blunt striking & is very painful compared to a bezel with slight prongs.